8:27 a.m. - Sunday, Dec. 13, 2009
Planning a Chanukah Party
With all the fairs and events going on this week in Chiang Mai, I managed to slightly concentrate on my roots and plan a Chanukah Party for neighbours and friends. It was not easy, as I hardly had time to break away from daily events that are so new and intriguing to me--for instance the Green Fair at Think Park on Nimmenhaemen. Last week it was an art fair. This week it was a fair of all the new technology in "green products" for the house and garden. There were some very interesting decorative and functional items, as well as lots of creative technology--I could have spent days there, but the party must go on.

My cleaning lady -DOI - came and helped with the set up and cleaned up after the party.

One of the wonderful things here in Thailand is that catering does not cost an arm and a leg, and then some. Aside from the expense of wine ( 3 bottles for 1000 baht--about C$30), the catering bill was 4000 baht to feed twenty five people. And, there was enough left over for another 10 or 15 meals.
Everyone enjoyed the party, and I was invited to do the next Passover dinner in April. I declined because i don't know how to do Gefilte fish. But, we did discuss to do an event where everyone shares in bringing a dish or two....and we will continue to plan this in the future.

To all my friends and family, I wish you all a very happy, healthy, and prosperous Holiday Season--a very Happy Chanukah, Merry Christmas, and a wonderful 2010.

Originally I thought of preparing all of the food, but I do not have a real oven, and I thought that with all the time effort involved, that it would be almost the same price to have it catered. I gave a recipe for potato latkes to a restaurant, had them made a main course of whitefish, had them make a couple of cakes, then I added a mango/pepper/tomato salad in vinigrette dressing, and got some strawberries and pineapple to augment the dessert.
I even found gold chocolate coins which made the event more traditional because there was Chanukah gelt (money). For the life of me I could not find a dreidle to play games.

5:44 a.m. - Thursday, Dec. 03, 2009
November flew By
With the festival of Loy Karatong, the cool season as the Thais call it is ushered in.

The days are nice and warm, but the night air is chilly, with temperatures plummeting to around 18C. When one is here for several seasons of heat during the night, the chilly air could be a sign of relief. Not for this camper, though. I guess my blood has thinned, and I walk around wearing socks, a sweater and a jacket in the evenings. The air conditioner is silent, and even my fans are off. I close all the windows and doors to try to keep the chill out.

I have been sick with a bad cough, flu for almost a month. I have been to the doctor, the hospital, and back to the doctor a few times, gotten excellent health care, and I can say I am on the mend. I guess I started feeling really bad about a month ago when I went to the hot springs just outside of the city, and I guess I might of gotten chilled.

Needless to say, staying in the house is not an option during the day. The weather is nice and warm, but when the temperature is not above 30C it seems it is not swimming weather.

There have been countless fairs and festivals which change every week. It is almost impossible to keep up with what is going on, and I can easily say if one attends two an evening, the week is not long enough to take them all in. For example, I wanted to take in the agricultural fair, and turned left instead of right, and I ended up at the food festival. There was a book fair in the same area of town, and across the river was a very impressive gift show, featuring high quality gifty items for the holidays. The stores and malls are all decorated for Christmas, and one is starting to get sick of the Christmas carols playing all over the place.

On American Thanksgiving, I was invited by a neighbour to go to one of the hotels for a turkey dinner with all the trimmings. I had never been to the D2 Hotel before, but was impressed by its simple, yet elegant decor. The food was magnificent--it was buffet of course, but the selection, presentation, and taste was like freshly made to order. The price was about C$22 which is outrageous for Thailand, but in terms of North America, a bargain. Dinner included a free flowing wine service, and the wait service was live having one's own personal servant. Many of the stores advertised precooked turkey or ham dinners complete with cutlery delivered to ones home. I decided not to do this because firstly, I only eat the turkey breast, and how long would I be able to keep eating the same dish. The average price of a completely cooked turkey weighing 6 to 7 kilograms complete with stuffing, gravy, cranberry sauce, potatoes, and an assortment of side dishes is about C$40 to C$50 delivered.

I mentioned that I won a door prize at a big band concert a month or so ago which was four nights at the Sofitel in Bangkok and Hua Hin, and it seems that my luck has continued. I was at an afternoon Christmas fair at City Life Magazines office, and I won a prize of a grand dinner for two, including a bottle of wine which is worth 4000 baht, or about C$120, at the famous Rachamankha Hotel. This hotel (www.rachamankha.com) is rated as one of the finest boutique hotels in the world.

This coming weekend is the 82nd birthday of His Majesty the King, and there are a number of festivities celebrating this event of the world's longest reigning monarch. There are also art fairs, exhibitions, and concerts going on. I just don't know how I am going to be able to attend most of the events.

Next week on December 11th is the first day of Chanukah, and I am planning a party, and am having it catered--latkes and all-- for about 25 guests on Saturday the 12th. So, if any of my readers are in the vicinity of South East Asia, please let me know, and you are welcome to join the latke fest.

On the 15th of December I booked an Air Asia seat sale to Phuket and Krabi for less than C$60 return. Phuket is over two hours south of here by airplane.
I have never been there, and it is a great opportunity to warm up at the beach.

Happy Holidays to all !!! And, to all a good night.

11:42 p.m. - Thursday, Nov. 12, 2009
As with Loy Krathong comes ICE COLD WEATHER (so to speak)
As the rainy season ended around the middle of October, the cold season has begun. The days are clear and cloud free, temperatures going up to around 35 C., but the evening temperatures have dropped to nearly 21 C, making it feel like we are having an ice storm or something. No kidding. I have put on a heavy quilt, and am still freezing. The dramatic change in temperatures have given me a horrendous cough, sore throat, ear infection, and sneezing bouts.
I tried going to the mineral baths in Sankapang last weekend. In the mineral baths, one can boil an egg in less than three minutes, but once can rent a private little cottage with a whirlpool bathtub, and control the temperature of the sulpha hot bath to a comfortable level. The room complete with a bed, television, and airconditioning costs C$6.00 for the day. I had thought that resting here would warm me up....but I was wrong.

A day later I was breaking out in sweats, going into chills, coughing, and feeling horrid, so reluctantly I went over to Chiang Mai Ram Hospital to emergency. THey checked me in, gave me a battery of tests, a 24 hour nurse, nice private room with 42 inch television and DVD, and whatever else I wanted. They kept me overnight for observation all for a cost of $C 52.00. It is outrageous compared to the Canadian system, but without having insurance here, many consider it less expensive than many five star hotels. They wanted to keep me longer, but I decided that I would prefer to rest in my own home. But, they called and checked on me to see how I was doing a day later.

Feeling a bit better today, I went with a neighbour to the Mecure Hotel to hear a big band from Amsterdam who is on tour in Thailand. There was a grand buffet dinner, and two and a half hours of old big band era music. All this for an astonishing 500 baht per person--outrageously expensive venue, but what the hell ($C 16.00) THe music was very pleasant, and the highlight was when the thirty odd piece band took to the floor where the tables were and went all around the room and played. It was a very nice warm touch. And, I forgot to mention I won the first place door prize of two nights in the Sofitel Centara Grand Bangkok, and two additional nights at the Sofitel Centera Grand Resort & Villas in Hua Hin complete with meals. Both properties are 5 star plus facilities...and one could only dream about staying there. The only thing not included was the transportation there and back. Pity.

I have booked a seat sale to Phuket from December 15th to 22nd on Air Asia for C$ 60.00 return. I have never been to the south, and this is a grand opportunity to get some R & R, like I have had such a heavy work load since I have been here. I will search the internet and look for some sell offs for hotels and guest houses to make it a cheap and enjoyable trip.

The Canadian dollar has been steadily rising in value here, now hovering at over 31 baht to a dollar, and making living expenses even less expensive. I have discovered the Muang Mai market for fresh produce which is open daily--it is the wholesale market for hotels and restaurants, and prices are unbelievable. I can fill up on a weeks worth of fruit and vegetables for less than $6.00.

Until next time.....
Happy Thanksgiving to my American friends, and an early Happy Chanukah to my Jewish friends and family...and by the looks of it here--Christmas sales are in full swing. AND they are all Buddhists.

6:17 a.m. - Monday, Nov. 02, 2009
Loy Krathong Festival --November 1st to 3rd
Sunday evening was the start of Loy Krathong Festival, the most beautiful of all the festivals in Thailand. It is celebrated on the full moon day of the twelfth lunar month. It takes place at a time when the weather is fine and the rainy season is over and there is a high water level all over the country.

Loy means to float, and Krathong means lotus shaped vessel made of banana leaves. The Krathong includes a candle, three joss sticks, some flowers and a few coins.

THe history of the festival is obscure. First, it is to ask for apology from the water goddess of having used and sometimes made rivers and canals dirty. Second, it is to ask for flowers, candles, and joss sticks as a tribute to the footprint of Lord Buddha on the sandy beach of the Nammatha River in India. third, it is to show gratitude to the Phra Mae Kong Ka or Mother of Water. Fourth, it is to wash away the previous year's misfortunes.

In Northern Thailand the Loy Krathong festival which is also known as Yee Peng is particularly spectacular. IT is celebrated for three nights under the full moon.
According to northern Thailand (Lanna) tradition, each month is counted two months earlier than that in the Central Plain region equivalent to the second (YEE) month (PENG) in the Lanna tame frame. Northerners usually enjoy the Yee Peng month very much because it is the festival of lanterns. The celebrations include the release of thousands of "Khom Loys" (paper hot air floating lanterns) into the night sky all over the city.

People thought that lanterns could only be lit during Buddhist holidays or ceremonies, but actually, lanterns can be lit every evening or night. These lanterns can be hung on gates, fences, doors, windows, or the roof, or any place an individual wants to adorn with these delightful creations

There have been four different purposes for the northern Thais to hang lanterns: 1. beauty, 2. to pay respect to Buddha images, 3. to make one's home brighter, and 4. propitious purposes.

It was a delight to see these UFO brightly lit objects float through the sky--hundred and hundreds at a time. \The word Krathong means a cup made of leaf. So originally it was a small cup made from banana or bamboo leaves which was decorated and launched into the stream.

Now it is a flat raft rather than a cup. THe raft is made from a horizontal slice of 1 inch thick biodegradable buoyant banana tree trunk. It is also soft so toothpicks that are used to hold the decoration in place can pierce it. The circumference is wrapped with patterns of cut banana leaf and bright flowers while, on the top, a candle and sticks of incense are inserted, Some small coins may also be placed on the Krathong.

6:00 a.m. - Monday, Nov. 02, 2009
My First Guest (Jennifer) prepares to go home
It has been a difficult time trying to entertain Jennifer these past two weeks. She refuses to have any input into what she wants to do in the way of sightseeing, and she arrives in my apartment no earlier than one o'clock in the afternoon and waits to be served something to eat while she is surfing on the computer.

I think seven weeks is just too long for anyone to be a guest without prioritizing what there wants are. I know that she enjoyed shopping, but there is only so much one can bring home in a suitcase without shipping by post office or pay overweight charges.

Jennifer decided that she needed a pillow/lounge which is in the shape of a folded triangle, and assembles into a lounge when folded out. It weighs about 35 pounds, and is humungous and doesn't fit into any of the luggage, so we went to buy a duffle bag to take it to Canada. We got the duffle bag home, and it didn't fit. So, I went and got a cardboard box, and was going to wrap it around the triangle, but Jennifer needed the extra space for stuff she bought. We wrapped it, and it weighed a ton.

I decided that we should have a plan "B", and when it was time to go to the airport, I took the empty second suitcase for "just in case".

We got to the airport on the morning of October 29th, and of course the box was 32 kilos overweight. I emptied the stuff out into the other suitcase, and we still had to pay overweight charges, however the clerk undercharged us, because the clerk in Bangkok tried to collect more from Jennifer as they realized their mistake.

Well, now I have a triangular pillow in my storage cupboard to schlep back to Toronto for her.

Trying to get back to normality was easy--not having to worry about entertaining and meal preparations, and I slept most of the next day or two from six weeks of running around, and now my life was free to do as I please again.

Saturday evening was Halloween, and you wouldn't find Thailand much different than North America. Costumes, parties, trick or treating. And, of course the department stores started putting up their Christmas decorations and trees....isn't it a little early? And, wait a minute, this is Thailand...a Buddhist country.... celebrating all the Christian holidays.

6:59 p.m. - Saturday, Oct. 17, 2009
Pai & Mae Hong Son
Early last Sunday we started our drive to Pai. Just after we left Chiang Mai it started pouring like the sky just opened up, and came down in buckets for almost a half hour. Just before we came to the foot of the mountains, the rain eased and stopped. We proceeded to drive the 111 kilometer two lane highway which had almost 900 sharp winding hairpin curves all the way until we reached the valley which Pai is located. The journey took almost four hours.
The scenery was breathtaking, colourful greenery jungle, and vistas of different colours of green vegetation set against the hues of grey sky and clouds.
We arrived in Pai shortly before lunch, and looked for a place to eat. To travellers, Pai is sort of a mecca. It is a small laid back community of less than 5000 inhabitants but has hundreds of guesthouses, hotels, cabins, restaurants, bars, and you name it. Almost everything is western--organic this, and fruit smoothies, The buildings are almost all wooden shacks and small. There are a lot of younger touristy types congregating in the bars and restaurants eating organic foods such as muesli, breads, etc. etc. All the food is available in Chiang Mai as well, but everything seems to me congregated into a small three or four street downtown area. We stayed at a resort just out of the main area--it was on the river. The rooms were simple motel style, but clean. Jennifer complained about the bugs, and the staff re-cleaned the room. The food at a high class hotel restaurant was anything but passable, and we decided to leave the next day rather than exploring the area longer. We went to the night market, it was very unpretentious and expensive compared to Chiang Mai. The next morning we went for breakfast then went to a waterfall, national park, Chinese village, then had to return to Pai to go onto the road to Mae Hong Son which was 123 kilometers away. If I thought the road was winding and treacherous on the way to Pai, I was mistaken, as the road was almost 1000 hair pin turns--not curves--but 180 degree turns on a highway with no guards to keep the cars from going off the mountain. The vistas and the foliage was breathtaking. Words cannot describe the scenery. As we went further north we began to see some pine trees which are not anywhere else in Thailand. Approximately four hours later we arrived in Mae Hong Son, which is a beautiful Lanna style architecture town of about 10,000. The night market was washed out because it started raining as we were just getting out of the car, and everyone was packing up. We stayed at a little Thai motel --it was very nice and clean. We took our new dog on the trip and he (GUCCI) learned to walk on a leash, climb stairs, and go into the water at the water falls.
THe next day we visited a waterfall, a stallicate cave, a hill tribe village and other unique vistas.

The drive home from Mae Hong Son to Chiang Mai was very nice and easy, as there were hardly any curves in the road, and the drive through the mountains was relaxing and took about seven hours.

Everyone says that Pai is a must in an itinerary, but I would give it two thumbs down, except for the breathtaking scenery. Most people skip Mae Hong Son, but I would like to spend more time there--there is much more Lanna culture present, and the scenery is exquisite.

11:27 a.m. - Saturday, Oct. 03, 2009
Sukkot--alive and well in Chiang Mai
We have been laying low the past couple of days as Jennifer had a bone graft and implant, and is on pain killers that make her quite tired. When she has some energy she requests to shop.

This afternoon Jen has an appointment to get her permanent crown for her other tooth, and her final visit is on October 10th for checking her implant. She is due to come back in six months for the completion of the implant.

We were planning to go to Mae Hong Son and Pai tomorrow, but because of the typhoons that are effecting the Philippines, we are getting remnants of the rains, and choose not to travel in the treacherous mountain roads when they are wet.

Last night was the eve of Sukkot--a Jewish Holy period of seven days that started about 3300 years ago. Jews put up temporary homes (because they were displaced and travelling) and eat from the harvest. There was a mini-service and a sukuh set up on Larry Abramson's front lawn, and over fifty people came to a vegetarian pot luck dinner. It was quite nice, except for the heat inside the sukah (the walls were made out of see through plastic which didn't have any ventilation) and it felt more like a sauna than a temporary home in the desert. The service was egalitarian with input from Jews of every corner of the earth, Christians, and Buddhist monks.

After that I went to the Lanna Lavender Hotel for a soft opening caberet show with free food and drinks. The show was a Las Vegas type which was very sophisticated and interesting.

9:53 a.m. - Tuesday, Sept. 29, 2009
Winny exposes how Tourist Guides make Extra Money
Saturday afternoon we drove to the Tiger Kingdom in Mearim, and looked at the tigers from the outdoor restaurant and patio. Jennifer didn't want to go in and pet the tigers, so we passed on the extremely high admission charges to go in. From there we drove over to the Four Seasons Hotel & Resort, where we walked around the grounds, and commented on the lovely "old Thai village" design that the resort resembled.

It was food mode time again, and Winny took us to a restaurant on a lake near the city. It was very rustic, yet charming. There were gecko's climbing the outdoor walls, chasing insects, and cats roaming around trying to catch the gecko's. Winny told us that the owner was a former cook for the King, but retired in recent years. During the meal Winny told us that since he is showing us around, and that he used to be a tour driver in Nong Khai, he would use his powers to earn some money. We ordered fresh pan fried fish, chicken cashew, and a few vegetarian dishes, and the meal was extremely pleasant. The bill was less that $12 Cdn for the three of us. Surprise, surprise, after leaving and driving, WInny pulled out money equivalent to 15% of the bill, which was tourist commission for taking us there. This sparked my interest, and we got into a long, long conversation about this.

From there, we went back to the Night Market on Chang Klan Road were more souvenirs were purchased.

On Sunday, we drove to Bosang, and the surrounding craft areas, and Winny took us into a number of workshops and factories. Jennifer purchased a few items, and then we drove over to the Mandarin Oriental Dheva Hotel--one of the top hotels in the world, and toured it for a couple of hours. We had high tea and dessert in their pastry shop which by the way was divine. Jennifer commented on the grounds, and said that if she ever did get married--this would be the place.
From there we went to a restaurant called Farang on Canal road which was recommended to us. We were disappointed in the food, and decided that recommendations were a dime a dozen. We arrived home early, as it was the eve of Yom Kipper, and fasted from sun down to sun down the following day.

Winny, upon our return home from the Farang Restaurant pulled out a wad of baht, explaining that he got 20 to 30 baht at each factory and workshop he took us to, plus a commission ranging from 10 to 25 percent on what was purchased. He also got a commission of 10% from the restaurant. This got my wheels turning, and it it could be an easy way to earn money just by taking people out for shopping and dining. More on this later, and the research develops.

2:08 a.m. - Thursday, Sept. 24, 2009
Dental treatments on Track
It has been a few days, and we are unwinding and getting the necessary rest from our whirlwind spree in Bangkok.

Jennifer is enthralled with the number of bazaars and market places here, and is constantly wanting to go out with myself and Winny to shop. The main purpose of Jen's visit to Thailand has been to get dental care as she needs an implant and a crown. All the appointments were made with two different dentists, and tomorrow she will get a crown for one of her teeth costing 5000 baht (about C$175.) She has remarked about the appointment being efficient, polite, and surpassing Canadian standards. She visited the doctor who will do her implant and bone graft this afternoon, and it will be done next Monday afternoon, costing a total of 60000 baht or C$2000 for everything. The disappointing point is that she will have to wait until the graft heals before the tooth can be attached. This means coming back to Thailand in six months, which she eagerly agreed to do much to my surprise. The payment is to be made after everything is completed.
Jen is complaining about the heat, it is around 32C in the daytime, but I seemed to think that the weather is very comfortable.

After all the dental work is done, we plan on doing some touring around the north, and before she leaves, go down to Krabi in the south. She has expressed a desire to return to Bangkok to continue shopping.

Our new addition "Gucci" seems to be a hit as well with Jen. She doesn't like animals, but has taken a liking to the 5 week old brown and white shitzu that Winny acquired while we were in Bangkok. She said that she would like to take one back to Canada which shocked me.

I found a fabulous masseur who has been treating me for pain and lethargic feeling the past two days. I had and hour treatment yesterday for $4.00 and a two hour treatment today, and feel really energized and pain free.

Belated Shanna Tova (Jewish New Year) to all my friends and family, and wishing you all the best in health and happiness in 5770 and beyond.

7:47 a.m. - Monday, Sept. 21, 2009
Return with Jen to Chiang Mai
On Friday, Sept. 18th Jennifer and I flew to Chiang Mai out of the hectic (shopping frenzy) chaos of Bangkok. The hour flight was uneventful, and we were met by my houseboy, Winny, who in his Thai goodness, presented Jennifer with a gorgeous bouquet of yellow lilies, and welcomed her to Chiang Mai. Out luggage came off the ramp almost immediately, and we loaded everything into the car, and headed for the seven minute drive home.

We unloaded all the luggage in my apartment, and promptly left for dinner with my neighbour Judith, and decided to go to Kantary Hills off of Nimmenhaemen Road for salad bar. It was Rosh Ha Shanna eve (New Years in the Jewish faith) and we all had a wonderful time.

When we returned we brought Jennifer's luggage up to the room I rented for her so that she would have her own space. She unpacked, and was sort of upset, that we didn't go shopping. I was exhausted, and had blisters on my feet from not wearing socks, and walking around for hours and hours in the heat, and I just couldn't take another step.

Saturday morning, Jennifer came down for a lovely breakfast that Winny prepared, and we drove around the city, giving her a little tour. We had a three o'clock appointment for Jennifer for her teeth--she came here to repair her teeth, as it is a fraction of the cost of home. Her cleaning was 800 baht (C$26.00) and she was thoroughly satisfied.
I also had my six month cleaning in the time spot after hers. She had to get a scan xray, and was given a clinic to go to. Her next appointment is on the 23rd for a cap for her tooth, which will cost about $150 Canadian in total. She was referred to another doctor for an implant, which costs 1/4 of Ontario, and her appointment there is on the 24th.
Later on in the day we went to a new flea market out by the super-highway, and Jennifer returned to shopping mode, as she was intrigued with almost everything she saw. We also visited the Saturday evening market near Chiang Mai gate, and she shopped and shopped and shopped.

Sunday, the 20th, we walked over to the mall near my apartment, and I showed her around, so she could further explore it on her own. Then we went to get her a panoramic xray of her teeth for the dental appointment next week at a cost of 200 baht. She was in and out in less than two minutes. Then we drove to Ban Tawai, a village south of the city where a lot of the souvenirs and handicrafts are made. Jen ordered a bunch of lamps, which will be delivered to my apartment next week. It started raining heavily, so we decided to return to Chaing Mai. THere wasn't a drop of rain there. Then we went to the famous Sunday evening market that starts at Thapae Gate. She was overwhelmed with the assortment of goods, and shopped and shopped and shopped. We ate dinner in a nice little Italian restaurant and continued shopping. She asked WInny to bring her back the following Sunday so she could continue with her favourite past-time. He has been very good with her, as he bargains in Thai, and gets better prices for her.

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JENNIFER HAS SHOPPING FEVER
Jennifer got up quite early in the morning because of the jet lag and eleven hour time difference. We had a leisurely breakfast in the hotel coffee shop which was included with our room rate.

We planned our day to go and get Jen a new SIM card at the MBK mall, walk through Paragon shopping mall, and Central World so Jen could see a couple of the nicer malls in "this third world" country. In the afternoon we planned on a city tour.

The malls open at 10 am, and we arrived and she was overwhelmed with the merchandise and souvenirs. We took the skywalk (along side of the Skytrain) to Paragon, where she was impressed with all the designer stores and had a light Japanese lunch there. Then over to Central World to walk through it to Platinum Wholesale Fashion Market.

We got in there, and there were seven floors of wholesale clothing and accessories shops, each selling their own designer label. Prices are good if you buy a single item, but if you buy three items in a store the price of each item will go down by about forty percent. Jennifer was dazzled and amused, and I never saw her in a shopping mode before.
Before we finished the first floor she bought things from no less then eight shops. Only seven more floors, and don't forget we had planned an afternoon tour.

The afternoon tour plans quickly vanished, and we had to shop and shop and shop. My feet were killing me, but Jennifer caught the shopping fever of Bangkok. We left the mall at closing time of around 8 p.m. carring bags and bags of fashions for her--and the good part is that she spent less than one hundred dollars. She was thrilled and amazed at the prices, and wants to continue shopping on our last day in Bangkok before heading to Chiang Mai.

At least Jennifer has my shopping gene...but I think she is a more picky shopper than I am, and she just wants to visit all the malls and outlets.

WELCOME TO THAILAND, I said to her...the whole country is a giant shopping mall.

5:44 p.m. - 2009-09-15
Crisis over Security Delay
I got a skype message and call from my daughter Jennifer because she missed her flight due to long line ups at the security checkpoints at Pearson International Airport. Initially, they couldn't get her out for another week, because the connecting flight in Chicago or Tokyo was fully booked. But many phone calls, and a day later, she seems to have gotten an upgrade (hopefully) and seems to be airborne a day late.

I couldn't change the air tickets to fly into Bangkok to pick her up and spend a few days here because I booked a really low cost special which had no changes allowed. Anyway, I am staying at the Anantara Baan Rajprasong Apartment Hotel in the heart of the shopping district in Bangkok--if one is to say there is a heard of a shopping district, because the whole country is a gigantic mall, flea market, and paradise for shopping. The lobby is sleek and modern with a waterfall highlighting the lobby, and the one bedroom apartment is ultra modern and sexy looking. THe bathroom is delightful and the toiletries are dreamy. The pool area is something from a fairy tale design with a free formed pool, water falls, trees, and an amazing sun deck. I am looking forward to the free buffet breakfast which comes with the room.

I will update this blog when I know the whereabouts of Jennifer, and when she lands.

9:23 a.m. - 2009-09-14
A TWO WEEK SYNOPSIS
It has been difficult for me to concentrate and update my journal, as I seem to always get sidetracked with spontaneous events that keep making my life here exciting.

A couple of weeks ago I was in Nong Khai, and Udan Thani, which are in the north eastern part of Thailand, and represent two of the 19 provinces (I believe) called the Isaan area. Nong Khai province borders Laos, and the friendship bridge over the Mekong River separates the countries. I didn't cross into Lao, because obtaining a visa for a day or so costs $90 compared to $30 for those with a US passport, and I didn't think it was a wise monetary expenditure for a day or so.
I stayed at the Nong Khai Resort, which is near the railway station. It is a lovely, small resort run by a Thai/Chinese couple. The room was a cabana suite facing the swimming pool. It had a king size bed, television, full washroom, air conditioning, refrigerator, and all the conveniences one would want.
There are many restaurants overlooking the Mekong river, but the food was mediocre, compared to Chiang Mai. Nong Khai is known for its Indo-China marketplace, which sells many products at prices up to 50% less than other places in Thailand.
On the outskirts of Nong Khai there is a Temple (I forget the name) with fabulous stone sculptures which I took many photos of. They had a garden with sculptures of life cycle events which took me over an hour to go through, even though the temperature was scorching.
Udon Thani is the next province--and the city--was build by the Americans during the Vietnam War for a base for their soldiers. The avenues are wide, and the streets are in a grid, unlike anything else in Thailand. There are all the major big box stores, and several shopping malls. The city is the fourth largest in Thailand.

Returning home, was by car. I leased a Honda Jazz for about $200 a month from a dealership which had to take back the car from someone who could not make the payments. I picked up the car in Udon Thani, and got the necessary insurance and paperwork done, myself and my new houseboy, Winny, drove towards Chiang Mai. The scenery through the mountains were breathtaking with cloud formations and mist below the tops of the lush green mountains. It is about a 12 hour drive to Chiang Mai, and we stopped at many different places to view the scenery and stop for coffee, as well as look (and purchase) unusual plants. It started to get dark, and we had dinner along one of the rivers in a houseboat, and looked for a place to spend the night, as we were both exhausted from the heat, and driving. Hotels were very, very expensive, and we were refused inspection of the rooms before renting them, so we decided to drive all the way home rather than staying in the historical city of Sukothai overnight. (I will do this another time, now that I have transportation).

Hence, driving for hours and hours we arrived back to the apartment about 4 am fully exhausted, and I spent the next day sleeping.

Having a car has made life a lot easier for me. It is easy to go shopping, touring, and having a driver who speaks THai and English is wonderful.

Winny cooks, cleans, drives, and organizes my life for me. The cooking is like living in a luxury resort with each meal like a work of art which is tasty and nutritious. Most of the meals are like a picture or sculpture of various colours of veggies, and fish, presented so artistically, and I feel guilty to destroy the creation. All this costs me about $25 a week, which is really cost neutral because of the way he shops at markets and gets Thai prices for everything.

I have done virtually nothing but socialize the past couple of weeks, and eating home, as I don't want to go to restaurants since I have my new cook.

One note of mention here is that a week ago Saturday, I went with my friend Judith to the Wedding Show at the Shangrila Hotel. Part of the perks of this was to receive a gold card good for discounts at the restaurants and other services at this luxury chain throughout Thailand, which normally costs about $50 a year for the card, and it was given free. They had a special in their spa, for $30 which is expensive for Thailand, but I thought it was worth the treat at that price because the normal price is over $100. This past Saturday, Sept. 12th, I used the certificate for a mud wrap, and massage which lasted over two hours. It was sure heaven, and I would do it again in a heartbeat.
It was disappointing when it was finally over, because I enjoyed it so much.

Tomorrow, on Tuesday, September 15th, I am flying down to Bangkok to meet my daughter Jennifer, who is arriving from Canada via changing planes in Japan. We will be spending three nights in Bangkok at the Anatara Baan Rajprasong Hotel and Serviced Apartments in the centre of Bangkok. It is a brand new hotel, and I managed to get a very good special including breakfast and all the amenities at less than $50 a night in a one bedroom apartment. Expensive, but it will be comfortable and relaxing for Jennifer after her 28 hour flight.

More later on.....

5:29 a.m. - 2009-08-22
Thailand is a Place where you are supposed to make your fantasies come true.
It was a lackluster week, however I will give you a brief outlook into my events.

I had two massages, the first one being a shoulders and neck massage for one hour at the cost of 120 baht, and the other a foot massage for the same length of time and cost of C4.00. Each day, I spend an hour or so doing lengths at the condo pool. I have prepared meals my myself and mostly ate in, spending no more than 200 baht on groceries. However, last night, Friday, my neighbour and friend, Judith, decided to splurge and go to the Holiday Inn for their famous seafood buffet. It was to say the least, fabulous. Gorgeous and tasty fresh water fish of every type and kind, and seafood were presented in the different stations. At 532 baht ($ 16 Canadian) it was truly the most expensive meal I have had in Thailand, but in real money it was worth every penny of it.

During our three hour dinner we discussed our dreams and fantasies of Thailand. Mine was to have a maid/butler who would cook, clean, do the laundry, shop, and take me around to different sights so I wouldn't have to try to explain to taxi drivers--in a trance of frustration to be properly understood--of where to go at a fair price. We discussed the economics of it, and the fact that what I would be spending in a salary ($30 a week) versus of what I have been wasting on being overcharged by trying to do things my self, as to my privacy and independence, to giving someone a better job than they currently have, and on and on and on. I decided to ask Winny--the person who took care of me after I had the accident to work for me. It would be a step up for his lifestyle, and I would make sure that he had another part time job, so that I would have some private space during the day. In fact, I thought it would be a good idea, since my daughter Jennifer would be arriving mid September, and he could take us around on tours, as he has been a driver for a tour company, but business is extremely slow, and he maybe works one or two days a month.

On Sunday, I am taking the VIP bus for 613 baht to Isaan Province for a mini vacation. It is located on the banks of the Mekong RIver, and I booked a resort cabana room for 700 baht a night including breakfast. Isaan is supposed to be the Thailand of yesteryear. I will report about it in my next update.

Saturday morning is the next bi-monthly expat meeting at the Shangrila Hotel, and the speaker will be talking on bio energy. Oh yes, I almost forgot to tell the most interesting event of the week. I was offered a real job at Chiang Mai University of teaching interior decorating. Apparently, a faculty member of the University was impressed of how I transformed my bare apartment into a "comfortable nest" on virtually nothing by changing the position of the furniture and adding plants and lighting, that the faculty decided to offer me a job teaching my so called talents. I have a meeting set up with them after I return from Isaan to discuss the details.

5:16 p.m. - 2009-08-13
A typical day in Chiang Mai
My readers have all asked from time to time as to how I spend my day in this difficult life.

Well, I decided to give you today's activities. I got up about 7:30 am, showered, had breakfast of one egg, mushroom and onion filling, an everything bagel, and coffee, not to mention fruit. Then did my emails, talked to a few people on Skype, and then had arranged to meet my friend to go for three and a half hours at a spa. Judith is a guru at finding great deals and discounts at all the wonderful spas in Chiang Mai, and all over the world should you want to know.

At 11 am we walked over to Spa Na-fandee-- (www.spanafandee.com) which is a very upscale business in our neighbourhood on three floors. It is very sheik and trendy, decorated in miniumalistic
splendor with candles and subdued lighting, teak and slate, and absolutely gorgeous.

We started off by having our feet bathed in rose petaled water and washed with spearmint, then were escorted to our private room complete with a sauna, private washroom complete with rain head shower head, soft music and our own attentive masseuse. I decided to have an organic facial massage at 350 baht (just over C$10) for 90 minutes, and a two hour Lavender Body Scrub for 390 baht (C$13). It was absolute heaven, and I was kind of disappointed when it was completed.
Between the two treatments I was escorted to have a shower, and got readjusted for the second treatment.

After the treatments were completed, freshly brewed tea and fruits were waiting for me at a little sitting area in my room for me to consume. I looked at my watch and it was after three. It was raining heavily outside, and we decided to wait out the storm, and we were served a numerous variety of different teas for the next three quarters of an hour.

We then walked over to have a light lunch -- I had hearts of palm with shrimp and rice for just over $C 2.00. We then walked over to the Royal Project Store which is about a kilometer away, and I got a good part of my organic produce shopping, which included papayas, persimmons, green beans, prepared salads, tomatoes, cucumbers, mushrooms, and other exotic fruits for less than $6.00.

It was close to 5 pm, and we took a song-taew home, and I am writing this entry. I would have gone to the pool, but it has been overcast with off and on rain.

Tonight I am meeting some friends, and we are going out for dinner.

A typical day....time just flies by.

Yesterday was mother's day in Thailand. It is celebrated on the Queens birthday. Like in North America, Thais buy flowers for their mothers and take them out for dinner. But my day was not typical. I got up and met my friend, Brad, who is visiting from the US, and we went to breakfast, then went with the Chiang Mai Friends Group to Doi Saket to plant bamboo trees. We returned home at 1.00 pm, I went to the pool, and got some other chores done later in the day. I prepared my own dinner of fish and vegetables and tried to get to bed early, but later company unexpectedly came by. Today, I spent a total of $3.00 for food, entertainment and other related activities.

3:15 p.m. - 2009-08-10
Chiang Mai Ram Hospital
Unfortunately, I had an opportunity to visit Chiang Mai Ram Hospital the other day. My good friend, Larry Abramson's father, tripped over a cat at their home and broke his hip. He is quite a spry man in his 89th year, and was trying to catch the cat from jumping on the table to get some food, and he fell.

All and all, the prognosis is very good. The team has to adjust something in his blood count, then will do a hip operation on him in a few days. The accident happened Friday afternoon, and I visited him on Sunday.

The Hospital, is one of the city's largest and is a couple of blocks from my house. I took the elevator up to the 12th floor and looked for the room. I knocked and entered. Here he was, happy and contented as can be with his son and wife beside him, and a team of gorgeous nurses that cater to every need. The room was large and spotlessly clean, decorated in pinks and purples with a breathtaking view of the south of the city and mountains. There was a 42" plasma television with DVD player, and all sorts of other toys that come with the room. The bathroom was impressive with marbles and tiles. There was a doorway that also led into the other part of the room--a living room equipped with another television, a full kitchen, another bathroom, a sofa and two chairs, microwave, fridge, dishes, etc, and it was stocked with drinks and snacks (supplied by the hospital) for visitors. Also there were chairs and a dining table, and another sofa that turns into a bed.

Cost per night including 24 hour private nurses, operation, and after care: CDN $85.

Unbelievable.

6:40 p.m. - 2009-08-04
Two women/ Four Hands--sounds like a Sex Massage
Today, Tuesday was a nurturing day for me. After going to the bank and withdrawing funds to pay my rent, internet, common area charges, water bill, after I made breakfast for my friend Brad who arrived last night via Vietnam, and my neighbour Judith who lives upstairs, I decided to pamper myself on Judith's advice.

I went across the street to the Nice Nails Salon. Their logo is "The Siam nails professionals". I wanted to have a pedicure, as I hadn't done one in over a month.
Well, let me tell you.....two women, four hands, handling both my feet, bathing them, and scraping away the dead skin, and gently cutting and filing my nails and feet for over an hour. It was sure bliss. I hardly felt them doing it--my feet are extremely ticklish, but this was anything but torture, almost like a foot orgasm, and I would go back in a heart beat to do it again.

So much dead skin and nails cut just perfectly. I can almost boast that I have the sexiest male feet in town. And, just think if I went to do this just before a weigh in at Weight Watchers, I bet you there would be almost an ounce or two of residue
from my feet to help with my weekly weigh in.

Cost for this one hour heavenly session: 200 baht
or just short of C$7. I have to admit that this was the most thorough and wonderful pedicure I have had to date.

1:37 p.m. - 2009-08-04
Invitation to a Birthday Party Celebration -- Thai Style
I was invited to a Thai friends birthday party, and was picked up at my apartment last night, and driven some two blocks away, and inside the soi next to Hillside 4 and 5, there was this humungous metal covered structure, with all sides open fully lit up with hundreds and hundreds of tables and benches, holding literally thousands of Thai's eating and talking away. The structure was about the size of three or four full size hockey rinks, maybe more, filled to capacity with patrons. There was a live band playing popular Thai and American oldies soft rock which was easy on the ears From what I could estimate there were at least 2,500 diners there. No, wonder the streets are empty!!!!

What I couldn't believe was the array of foods. Cut vegetables, beef, chicken, pork, all in bite sized raw portions that one would take and put into a plastic basket with tongs. Also there was every type of fresh and salt water fish I could ever name, plus, crab, shrimps, oysters, clams, lobster, calamari, etc, etc, that one would take another basket for, as one does not want to mix fish and other meats. Heaven forbid. I don't know if it is a religious issue, or what, but I just followed what I was told to do. One would take this over to the table where the party was--and there was a round little grill filled with burning hot charcoal, and a pot, which water was poured into, and then you place the foods and vegetables for cooking with chopsticks. Items that you wanted grilled were taken over to a central, huge bbq type grill and a person does the grilling for you, and you return when you think the items are ready for pick-up.
You are given a small plastic plate, a bowl, a soup bowl, and just gorge and gorge yourself until you are ready to explode. Then all the Thai's get up and get another load of food to cook again and again.

To my amazement, I just don't know where they put it. They are super slender, and eat like pigs, especially when it is all inclusive. I almost got ill, just watching how much they consumed, and I watched table after table, not just the table I was sitting at.

Then, once they scavenged the meats, it was time for dessert. Fresh fruit, cakes, jellies and mini pastries had to be tried, and God forbid if they missed one or more of the offerings.

I was the only Farang (non-thai) at this particular party, and there were only three other westerners in the space that I could see. We looked like needles in a haystack. Here I was, the overweight Farang sitting and eating very little, and the Thais gorging away until they couldn't move.

I was the only one to arrive with a birthday present. I didn't know what the custom was, so I bought something which I thought the recipient would like.
Then I learned it was Thai tradition for the birthday boy or girl to pay for the whole party and all the guests that were invited. I thought it would be Dutch treat as we know it, but the Thai's call it American way of going out.

It was a nice surprise not having to pay, even though I was fully prepared to. They told me it would be an insult, if I even asked to share the bill.

And, surprise, surprise, the hole meal excluding beer was 139 baht per person. ( $4.00 Canadian)

How on earth do they do it? I am still trying to figure it out the day after. I have ruled out the theory of they make it up on volume, but judging from the vast quantities that they eat--I am still scratching my head.

I'll post it on my blog, if I get the answer.

8:57 a.m. - 2009-07-29
My First Accident
It has been an uneventful time in terms of enjoyment since the last entry because on July 18th, I was on the way home from the old marketplace (Warrowat) and riding in the bicycle lane, and halfway home near the Thapae Gate, a songtaew swerved into me, and threw me some twenty feet. Luckily, I was wearing my helmut, and I got some cuts and bruises, but, I am suffering from lingering muscle pain on the left side of my body. The songtaew sped off leaving the scene, but some witnesses got his license plate number, and a number of people came to my aid. They carried me over to a chair, cleaned me off, bandaged me up, gave me water, tea, and ice, brought my bike off the road, and stayed with me to they were assured I was all right. The real pain started the next day, and I was on pain killers for more than a week. It was difficult for me to maneuver steps, and getting up and down off a chair.

Thais continue to be amazing in situations like this.
One family who I know just casually, kept coming over and nursing my wounds, cooking for me, and making sure that I wasn't bored. Their son, Winnie, is an English speaking tour driver, and he would come over for hours at a time, apply the medications to my wounds, and make gourmet style meals for me which were gorgeously presented like in a five star establishment. Unfortunately, I am on the mend, and he had to go and do a tour, so I couldn't play the invalid any longer.

Another Thai friend, Bob returned from a two week tour and visited me. He is also an English teacher on the weekends when he is not leading tours. He saw my circumstances, and had a few days off in between tours, and on Monday he decided that I needed to be a tourist and get out of the house.

We went first to the Mae Sa Elephant Camp which is about a half hour drive to the north in Mae Rim. I had been there three years ago, and was intrigued then, but since he gets free admission, I went again.
The day was overcast, so the heat was not intense, and I enjoyed walking around touching the elephants, and watching the show that they perform. They play soccer, throw darts hitting ballons, do all types of stunts, and seem to enjoy having people clap and laugh at their actions. One of the highlights of this show is their painting pictures. Their mahut stands besides them, and puts a small paint brush in their trunk and then they paint different objects--their were no less than eight elephants painting--some of them painted colourful flowers, abstracts, a self portrait, and a bonsai tree. Each time the brush was void of paint, the mahut would take the brush and refill it, and again place it in the elephant's trunk to continue. It was an amazing twenty minute ordeal, and the finished products are then sold to the viewers for varying amounts from $20 to $400 US depending on the amount of colours used, and the detail of the painting.

I did not ride an elephant, as I am still suffering from pain, and I thought the bumpy ride would aggravate the healing of my body.

From there we drove down the road to the Tiger Kingdom, where one can sit with the tigers and play with them. It is awesome. You can sit and play and pet a baby tiger or an adult, and they are alert. You can even watch them jump into a pool of water and play with a beach ball. We ate a buffet lunch there, and I didn't want to leave because I was so intrigued with these adorable creatures.

Next stop was an orchid farm. The array and varieties are endless, and the colours and shapes are vividly shown in row after row of displays. I did buy some orchid food, as I do have orchids growing in my apartment, but it seems when I look at them the flowers fall off. (I guess it is telling me that even the flowers can't stand to be with me).

Next day was a shopping day where we went to Ban Tawai to look at furniture and accessories. It was quite boring, as most of the items are just too touristy for me. It was quite humid, and I quickly drained of energy, so we stopped for lunch at a restaurant on the outskirts of Chiang Mai. Wow.
The place is called Khaomao-Khotang Restaurant
(www.khaamaokhaofang.com) and I was in awe. The lush gardens, waterfalls, lagoon, and decor were astonishing to say the least. And the food was the best that I have had. I happened to bring my camera and went crazy taking photos of the open air dining area covered in a cement cave like dome, and of course the bathroom which had plants and trees surrounding the urinals, sinks, and toilet stalls.

We then proceeded over to Home-Pro (the Thai version of Home Depot) so that I could get some things I needed for the house, and then to Big C, which is a huge, huge Walmart type store. I stocked up on cans of Tuna fish and bought a small fan for the bedroom.

Needless to say I was zonked after this, and came home slept early.

It is nice to know that my neighbours and Thai friends are very thoughtful and caring, and each one of them goes out of their way to help and make me feel so comfortable here. This is another reason that makes Thailand such a special place.

If you would like me to send you some photo's please email me, and I will try to send an attachment.

I look forward to hearing from you, and will try to do another posting soon.

9:34 p.m. - 2009-07-15
It just keeps getting more Amazing all the time.
I have decided to do journal entries once a week, as I am just too busy with other activities, but I have to go back on my word because of of a very positive experience I had today that I thought was worth mentioning. I went over to Airport Plaza today, and was walking around in Robinson's Department Store, and noticed a sign that said there were 70% discounts on English books. I went through the extensive selection and selected two books, which were reduced
to less than $C 2.00 each. One was with two CD's which was entitled "The fun way to learn Thai", which is kind of an oxymoron, because It isn't fun at all to learn Thai, and the other book was "Introduction to Buddhism" because I wanted to read about the culture and religion so that I might be able to understand the calmness of the people here. Well, I paid, and the clerk asked me if I would like the books covered. I did not understand her, and asked what she meant. Well, they have a service to cover the book cover in a shrink wrap material so it doesn't get soiled or wet when I own it. There was no extra charge for this service.
Amazing! One can always gasp at the level of customer service here. Would this ever happen in the west even in a million years? The answer is obvious.

The other point that I want to make is that I met with six other prominent residents on Monday to discuss the idea of marketing Chiang Mai as a retirement destination to the west. As you have read in prior posts, the cost of living is about 25 to 30 % of that of the west, there is tremendous infrastructure, great health care, fabulous restaurants and entertainment venues, great weather, peaceful life, and on and on and on. The owner of a travel business whose name is Boong attended the meeting, as she organized an association that bridges the cultural gaps between Thais and westerners, and will act as our liaison in dealing with the Thai bureaucrats. Even the mayor, a female who is 37 years of age, came to encourage
us to succeed in this project. I will write in detail about this project, once everyones ideas are formulated into a comprehensive proposal. To have someone of such a high authority to come at a think tank meeting, either says that the mayor doesn't have enough work to keep her busy, or that she heard about it, and wants to promote her city to the rest of the world. Amazing.....

2:14 p.m. - 2009-07-12
TOO MUCH TO DO & NOT ENOUGH TIME TO DO IT IN
It has been a delightful week weather wise, no need to use the air-conditioning. In fact it felt down right cool when the day time temperature hovered around 24C on one of the days. However, the temperatures climbed during the week to around 37 C, and there were scattered showers on most days.

I have been doing a lot of bike riding in the mornings, discovering little places that I must go back to with a camera. I have been tutoring a couple of students, but Tuesday was the Buddhist Lent day, and schools have been closed for the whole week, so my schedule has been lessened.

Wednesday morning at 7 am was market day at Chiang Mai University, where I picked up a few varieties of organic produce for salads and making fruit smoothies in the morning. I met with the co-ordinator of the Dining Out Group (Paul) and his Doctor friend (Mau Pan) in the evening for dinner.
Several years ago they were trying to put together a seniors home with assisted care facilities right up to
the end of ones life, and stopped because of the red tape in organizing it. I was doing research on this project, as a number of expats are moving here to retire, and I asked the question "What happens when you get too old and sick to take care of yourself?" The standard answer would be to return to one's own country to live out their final days.

Their approach was a little different than I would do, as they were looking for a property and not looking into the big picture. They wanted to do it as a non profit agency, but I quickly asked them how they would get investors if it was not for profit. They looked at each other, then I had their complete attention.

My idea is to have a community based on the world famous Baycrest Centre in Toronto, but with housing for expats to live in when they arrive, and then they could move to various facilities once their dependence on others increases. My multi pronged approach was to get a professional group to prepare a business plan, go to accountants and lawyers, who have clients who have money to invest in such a project, get a professional marketing agency to set up a think tank on how to promote it to English speaking communities in the USA, England, and Australia on living and retiring in Thailand. It has been done for Costa RIca, Mexico, and a number of other countries, so the models could be copied here. The only problem is that THailand is remote to the Americas, and most of the baby boomers have lost their retirement money in the crash of 2008, and can't really think of a nice place to retire. Very few know about THailand, so it may be a good tool to market trips to visit the country to see the infrastructure, medical facilities, and low cost/high value living. Advertising could be done to local AARP chapters and magazines as a tool to get peoples interest, just like it was done in Central America.

The owner of a small travel/relocation company took an interest in my idea, and we are having a meeting at my condo on July 13th (Monday) to set up a working committee.

Wednesday, my routine was the same as everyday, but in the evening I went with the Dining Out group over to Saun Paak Restaurant -- this time it was the salad pavilion at this gorgeous trio of restaurants in a breathtaking and relaxing park setting next to Airport Plaza. I had a wonderful organic salad with chicken and shrimps, and the most wonderful pumpkin soup I have ever tasted. I will give you a new Thai word here. It was the first vegetable word that I could retain in my brain---fuck tong --now who could forget that???? Going out with this group of Thais and westerners introduces one to obscure and interesting restaurants one would never find on ones own. They usually get about 25 members to come out.

Friday, I went riding and over to the Royal Project Store to get some groceries, and had my daily swim in the afternoon. I jumped into a song taew (red cab) and went over to airport plaza as I found out that one of my favourite craft stores --Northern Village-- was having a big sale, and I was looking for some serving pieces. I then went to dinner with a neighbour to a new Thai restaurant that opened across the road from my apartment--Le Bric--it was beautifully decorated, and the food was scrumptuous, and very reasonable. We had stir fried shrimp in tamarind sauce, stir fried mixed vegetables in oyster sauce, and cashew chicken with vegetables with rice and drinks for 200 baht $C 6.
for both of us.

Saturday morning was back to the market to get some fruit for making smoothies, and then at 9:30 I had to leave to the Expat Club meeting at the Shangrila Hotel. The editor of a local magazine called City Life (citylife.com) Magazine gave a very informative and interesting talk on the westerners who inhabited Chiang Mai from the very beginning of the founding of the city some 700 years ago. She is the Thai born daughter of a British diplomat, and the talk, was just too short for all the information we tried to decipher. Came home, swam and then had to get dressed for a presentation by the The Chiang Mai Youth Philharmonic Band and Symphony Orchestra in the 2500 seat theatre at Kad Saun Kaew. It was brilliant --this 70 piece plus professional youths played
a number of Thai pieces plus:
Coriolan Overature Op.62 by Beethovan
HarpConcerto in B major by Handal
Piano concerto 32 by Sergai Rachmanioff
Symphony No. 40 in G minor by Mozart

This two plus hour event cost me about $10 but I had expensive seats, as I was sitting in the 2nd row centre.

Sunday brunch was an extravaganza organized by a bunch of neighbours as they were discussing the best food at the best price Sunday buffets. I had never been to the Holiday Inn before. THis is no ordinary Holiday Inn. Opulent is the only way to describe the tremendous airy lobby. The buffet was so large, one could not get to every station if one tried. I started with the huge prawns, lobster tails, and baked salmon, and they were divine. The hot buffet was just too much to begin eating. Salads, cheeses, oriental and Italian stations, as well as a dessert bar that was to die for. All this for $C 12 a head which is considered very very expensive in Chiang Mai. But, the place was packed. I wouldn't go back for a very long time, because if I did, I would weigh twice as much as I do now, and I have absolutely no control at these type of places....but it was a great experience.

So, once can see, I am doing lots and lots of stuff that I wouldn't do, or couldn't do at home, because of the cost involved, the weather, and the lack of a large social network.

Here, every one feels comfortable living here, and they say there is no other place that they would rather be.

I will post next week on the activities and adventures I have been experiencing.

6:35 p.m. - 2009-07-05
THIS WAS THE WEEK THAT WAS
I am updating this blog on the first miserably rainy day that I have experienced so far in Thailand. Non stop showers all day, under dark clouds remind me of the countless dismal days in the winter in Toronto without sunlight. The rain has been steady, but not torrential cloud bursts, and the Thais just do not know how to handle this weather. They are afraid of getting a drop of water on their body, and carry umbrellas and
plastic rain gear to protect themselves. It is similar to us being afraid to go out during a blizzard.

I drove with a Thai friend who has a car today to San Kampaeng, a cottage industry village about 15 kilometers east of Chiang Mai. I was looking for some utensils, but we wondered into many different factories, such as lacquer woods, silk, bronze works, ceramics, and silverware. I was amazed by the size of these workshops, and the quantity and high quality of the goods in each place. Had I been in a buying mood, I could have easily dropped a bundle.

Much to my amazement the shops are empty of customers, and staff followed me around trying to make a sale. I was especially intrigued by the lacquer wood with inlaid duck and quail egg shells which are glued as patterns and inlaid in the bamboo, teak, and mango wood handicrafts. The days of handmade are considered over because of the mass produced and inexpensive crafts made in China, but Thailand still has this cottage industry that keeps on producing. I just don't know who they are exporting to, as tourism is down over fifty percent, but they just keep on working, and producing more and more.

We ate buffet lunch at the Empress Hotel in Chiang Mai for 175 baht a person ( I have a membership card that reduces the price from 250 baht a head). The price in Canadian dollars was about $5.50. There was almost everything imaginable in the huge spread, western, Thai, Italian, Chinese, and Japanese sections, as well as a salad, soup, and dessert bar. Coffee, tea, and soft drinks are included in the price, as well as the price being inclusive of tax and service charges. A bargain by North American standards.

Afterwards, we went over to a computer show at the Chiang Mai convention centre, and it was packed with people and bargains galore. I did manage to find out about a free Apple course for Mac users which is held on Saturdays. I spoke to them, and they were more than obliging to set up a special instructor for me who speaks English to show me all the features and programs that I do not know how to use. I also bought a printer for under $40.

During the week, I used my bike and explored different areas of the city. On Friday, I discovered that there was another market held on the first Thursday and Friday of each month, which was first class with its prepared, and fresh food, as well as interesting arts and crafts. Located in a park behind the Royal Project (Organic Store) at Suthep and Canal Roads, this is a gem of a find. I purchased a whole bass (about 2 lbs) which is bbq'ed in foil covered in course salt. One doesn't eat the skin, but opens the fish up, filets it, and the taste is moist and succulent. And it cost less than $3.00. I also purchased beets and passion fruit as well as some other fresh vegetables at the Royal Project Store, and juiced the beets and passion fruit together for a wonderfully tasting breakfast smoothie. Other finds available there were wonderful exotic plants, woven bamboo baskets and decorative items, clothing, jewellery, and soap products.

I drove down on my bicycle on Saturday morning to the Warrowat market (China Town is here) and was looking for some material to finish a bedsheet. I purchased a fitted sheet, and wanted it flat, but my cleaning woman, Doi, sewed it flat, and there were four corners without fabric. So I purchased a contrasting colour cotton, and she will sew two large stripes across it top and bottom of the sheet to make it look finished and exotic. While I was there, I popped into another fabric shop, owned by Indians who spoke perfect English, and they showed me some sheet sets, naturally without the flat top sheet. When I asked about a top (flat sheet), they told me that they would make one for me in a day or two....the fabric is 320 thread count, 100 per cent cotton, and the cost for the entire set is less than C$30. A bargain.... so now I will not have to wait until I have visitors to bring me bedding. The costs in the department stores is prohibitive by even high Canadian prices.

Saturday evening I found a promotion on massages at the Pornping Hotel in the night market area. A two hour Thai massage for 200 baht ($6) which was so wonderful. The masseur, a 50 year old, just
literally took my body apart piece by piece, and massaged every bit of ache and pain out of it. I certainly will go back again and again, as this was one of the best, if not the best Thai massage that I have ever had.

It was nine o'clock when I had finished, and with my friend Bob, we decided to go to a restaurant called Sabai Dee, which had a glowing review in the Chiang Mai newspaper. It was one of the worst meals that I had experienced in Thailand, although the price was very reasonable for two people (less than $6)

Came home about eleven p.m. and was too exhausted to go out to listen to music, so went to bed like an old man.

The week went by rather uneventful, tutored my student a few mornings, went to the pool, rode my bike, and went to an art opening on Thursday evening with my neighbour Ronny Lavin. The jazz, wine, and Vietnamese food buffet was amazing, but the art exhibit was something to be desired.

I find that the days are going by very quickly, and that there is not enough time in the day to do things that I want to. Even though it is rainy season, the rains come every two or three days, and lasts about an hour. The temperature is quite cool compared to April, when it was almost unbearable, and I never put on the air-conditioning any more. There is always a nice light breeze from the mountains in the west, and it quite comfortable.

It was a pleasure getting back to Chiang Mai from Bangkok last Monday evening. It seems like a nice, lazy, sleepy village compared to the chaotic lifestyle of the big city that I ran to. I don't think that I would want more than two days, maybe three, when I visit Bangkok again.

I have a full week of meetings, dinner engagements, etc. coming up, which I hope to post next weekend.

Until then, I wish all my followers good health, and I think of each one of you, and wish you could visit this magical part of the world. Until then, contact me on skype or send me an email.

11:19 p.m. - 2009-06-28
Winding Down if there is Winding Down in the Big Mango
I am adding this entry as my last of four nights in Bangkok, as my trip to the big city is beginning to wind down.

Last evening there was a torrential downpour that lasted a few hours, and limited my walking around the different sois discovering little boutiques, and interesting places, so I grabbed some Vietnamese food. It stopped raining, so I hopped onto a Skytrain, and got of in Silom, the famous raunchy area at night with boy bars, sex shoes, and a famous night market.
The streets and bars were almost deserted for a Saturday evening--I don't know if there is a lack of tourists, or if the rain (which stopped) kept everyone from going out. The place is usually hopping. I expressly came here to buy some knock off Prada sunglasses, but were unable to find them.

Saturday morning I sat around the pool and built up energy and went back down to Central World Mall, which is on 7 floors and has over 1000 stores. It was packed, as all malls are on the weekend. I was looking around at designer furniture--just for curiosity--and believe me, I could choose a house full of furniture being blindfolded, and still be happy. I came back to the hotel, and decided to go out for dinner, and another downpour came. It subsided about 9:30 and I went over to Sukhumvit, Soi 12 (near Asok skytrain stop) and walked up the soi to the famous Cabbages and Condoms restaurant. Everything about it was delightful. There are life size statues of people in costumes made out of red and yellow condoms. The gardens were all lit with tiny Christmas lights, and were some what magical, although I ate inside. Food was wonderful. At the end instead of offering mints, they give you souvenir condoms to take home. I won't go into the history of the name, but you can google it by typing in the name of the restaurant, and there will be everything from the menu to the purpose of the establishment and the foundation and causes.

So, my trip is winding down, just in time, as I have run out of steam, and I have to figure out how to pack everything in the suitcase that I brought down.

I have a 5:30 p.m flight on Monday, arriving back in
Chiang Mai at 6:30 pm. It should be an easy flight if I can squeeze everything in a suitcase and make it weigh only 20 kilos. I wish that I were a magician.

Will update next weekend.,....

5:33 p.m. - 2009-06-27
Overwhelming Bangkok
The traffic is a 24/7 nightmare. It is chaotic, yet one does not hear horns honking or irate drivers giving the other ones the famous finger gesture. People live with patience. I don't know if it is the Buddhist upbringing or not, but when it is said that patience is a virtue, they must have been using it when they describe the traffic gridlock.

Last night I went over to the Baan Khanitha Thai Cuisine restaurant on Soi 23 off of Sukhumvit on the recommendation of my friend Judith, who lives in my building. I must say that she knows her food, as the restaurant was marvelous-- atmosphere was Thai style sophisticated in a old house surrounded with gardens. It was a little pricy for Thai food, but it was well worth it. I had Chicken Curry soup with coconut milk, chicken with tamarind sauce, and shrimps with pineapple and vegetables, and it was served with brown rice. I was told to leave room for dessert, and I managed to stuff myself having some type of fruit ball cooked in ginger sauce. It was like going to heaven with the dessert flavours immersed together.

Later on I was just too tired and went back to my hotel for an early night. Before going home I walked through the famous or infamous Soi Cowboy. It is a small street lined with bars, and hooker hostesses inviting you to join them for a drink and whatever follows... but I declined. The neon signs sticking out from the buildings lit up the street like a giant Christmas tree, and the loud music coming from each bar set the tone for a raunchy time.

Today, Saturday, I got up late and had breakfast and went through Central World Plaza ( the most enormous structure I have ever seen with millions and millions of square feet of retail space on seven or eight floors. My friend Howard to me that I should walk through it to get to the Pratnum and Platinum buildings which houses the wholesale garment industry. Wow. That is all I can say. It is so overwhelming, it was unbelievable. Shop after shop of incredible merchandise at great prices. THe only catch is that one has to buy three pieces--it can be mix and match--but the prices are too good to be true. The crowds were huge, and soon after doing a perimeter tour, I was just to exhausted to go on. When my kids visit me, or any other visitor comes, I will be sure to include this place on the itinerary as part of the shop to you drop tour.

I guess it might be the humidity that wears one out in Bangkok. The temperature is about 36 C today, but the humidity is overwhelming outside. The malls are ice cold inside, and one virtually needs a sweater inside, but who can carry one when the temperature is so bloody hot outside.

It is very hectic and fast paced here, and after three days I am beat and ready to go back to Chiang Mai to the serenity of the local traffic and smaller city life. Just crossing a major street is a chore here, it is either taking two flights of stairs up to walk over a bridge, and another two flights going down again to be at street level or just doing one side of a road.

Hopefully tonight I will have enough energy to venture out to Silom area to see one of the famous
Bangkok sex and cabaret shows. They are fun to watch, but too expensive if one wants to take part in the festivities with one of the performers afterwards.

Six o'oclock and time to decide where to go for dinner....more later

4:58 p.m. - 2009-06-26
From serenity to Bangkok excitement
Living in Thailand has made it difficult to concentrate on doing several tasks each day. I just don't know what it is, the marvelous weather, or just getting sidetracked with events and people that keep me off my planned schedule. One of my neglects have been keeping this journal up to date for my fans.

Last Saturday evening I went to a solo piano concert by a young eighteen year old, who has competed all over Thailand for his abilities to play classical music from the European greats, and then competed all over Asia for this title, and has done solo musical presentations in Europe. He has been awarded a scholarship this coming August to study at a prestigious music school in Rochester, New York for the next 4 years.

The free concert was held at Payap University to a fully packed and standing room crowd.

The young accomplished musician is brilliant, as he played various sonatas and ballads from such greats as Chopin, Listz, Beethovan, and more. It will be interested to see his career skyrocket once he finishes his training in the US.

The week also went by rather quickly, with me tutoring, going out for dinners with various groups and organizations, and puttering around the house.

I just don't know where the time goes.

Today, I am writing this journal from Bangkok. Yesterday morning a took a flight from Chiang Mai to Bangkok on Thai Airways who have a special on their flights for about C$40 one way for the hour and ten minute flight. I got a special on a hotel room (acutally a furnished hotel/serviced apartment for $45 a night including breakfast which is about 70 percent off the regular price. It is located in the heart of the downtown shopping area, and is right near the sky train, so location wise, it is a hit. The room has a fridge, microwave and little kitchen with cutlery and dishes. There is also a small swimming pool on the roof.

You can take the boy out of the city buy you cant take the city out of the boy. That's all I can say about Bangkok. It is New York on steriods. Hopping. Exciting. Vibrant. Sophisticated. Loud.
Serene. The cab ride into town took about a half hour, as I had the Thai version of the Molson Indy race driver doing all kinds of stunts to set a speed record during the mid day traffic. For $10 I got my ride right to the hotel, and went out to the famous Emporium Shopping Complex, as I had missed it on previous visits, and was told it was a "must" to see.
Well, it was a must to see, as when I entered, there was a luxury car show, with the Jags, Bentley's Rolls Royce, Mercedes, and others up and down the isles on 4 floors. And, all the world designers had shops there, as well as Emporium Department Store, and a great food court, which I ate lunch at. Later I took the sky train over to Central Department Store's main store, and did some serious damage there by hitting the end of season sales. I got complete bedding sets at 75% off -- it almost made the price
comparable to home, and I desperately needed bed sheets, and have been waiting for someone to come and bring them. But, now I am stocked up. I came home and rested at the pool and ate dinner at a local Thai restaurant.

This morning I met a cousin from Argentina whom I never met before-- he has been teaching English here for the last seven years, and we met on Facebook.

Later on I went over to Paragon -- my favourite mall ever, and picked up more bargains.

Even though Chiang Mai seems to have everything, one has to hunt and hunt till they find it, but here everything is neatly organized in the great malls this city happens to offer. Even foodstuff-- there is so much more variety of western type foods all in one place here.

Bangkok being the big mango, the centre of it all, is
charming, fast, sophisticated, expensive relatively speaking for Thai standards, but not in real terms, has a flare. The people are dressed classier, the service is more polished, the stores are more designer looking and upscale, and English is widely spoken and shown in the signs. Yet it is hectic, and I am exhausted walking around, as I know that I have to get back to the slower pace of life up north.
The transportation system here is first rate, with a skytrain and an underground subway, busses, and taxies. Missing are the songtaews which Chiang Mai is famous for. Everything, every car, building, store, you name it is air conditioned freezing cold as the temperature is about 4 or 5 degrees warmer here, and it is much more humid.

And yes, I could survive here. I even found Movenpick Ice cream at Paragon. I have been having a craving for it lately, but it is not available in Chiang Mai. Naturally, I did have a couple of scoops of my favourite espresso croquant.

I am going to take a little nap before enjoying the nightlife tonight, which I will report in my next blog....

Take care, and keep in touch

10:06 a.m. - 2009-06-18
A short synopsis of the last Several Weeks
It, again, has been several weeks since I updated this journal. For a couple of weeks I was really sick with a bad cough, ear ache, headache, dizziness, and just wanting to stay in bed. I did go to the doctor ($3) for a consultation and medication, and there was no need for hospitalization, but instead it was arranged for people to bring in meals and help me in the house.
I shall give a donation to a charity for these kind gestures.

Rainy season in Thailand is not as severe (so far) as one would expect. There are many days which are overcast, but the sun does eventually come out and everything dries up in ten minutes. The rain comes from virtually nowhere without warning, and can last from a few minutes to several hours. Thais seem to be afraid of getting wet, and if there is rain, they cancel everything. Myself, coming from a climate of cold and dreariness, the rainy season thus far has been a piece of cake. No overcoats, no boots, just an umbrella (called rom in Thai) is all that I need.

As I mentioned in my previous post, Thais don't need an excuse for a festival. There are at least two or three going on every weekend, and many of them last throughout the week. Last post I mentioned the Lanna Festival, which was a music and art presentation, along with food vendors, arts and craft vendors, and everything one needs to be enlightened and entertained. Then there was a festival to commemorate the 80th Birthday of the Queen of this province, with lots of traditional costumes, Lanna music and arts, and of course everything for sale including kitchen sinks. Not to mention there are several music events, most of them free, and some charge a nominal fee. They range from jazz concerts featuring 8 piece bands playing really great music--free in a city park. Then there are classical concerts from great composers of the past, some of them at the various
universities. Then there are art exhibits, both public and private....but I have found these to be less than impressive so far. We are in the midst of a ten day international film festival showing short and long films from an array of countries including
United States and Israel. If the film is not in English, there are subtitles. And, best of all, there is no cost to the film goer.

One thought that passes through my mind every time I go to a festival and look at the arts and crafts. I remember the years that Judy and I were selling jewellery at the various arts and craft fairs in Southern Ontario, and I don't miss it at all. All the unpacking and setting up, selling, and then worst of all packing it all up for next time was no picnic. What I think is worse here is the longer hours that everyone has to put in... usually the fairs go to eleven or twelve at night. I have recognized a few of the vendors who drift from one fair to another, but have not talked to them about their experiences due to the communication barrier.

A few days ago, I went to a house sale -- a westerner (Farang) couple were pulling up stakes here and moving to Spain and selling their possessions. I went mainly to purchase a fan for the bedroom, and a small cabinet but both of these items were sold. However, I did end up with a bicycle and a desk lamp. I paid about $30 for an almost new bicycle. I went the next day to a bike shop to purchase a front and rear light, mirror, and helmut which cost more than the bike. The owner of the shop told me that the bike was worth about $175, and I was pleased with the bargain. This gives me an opportunity to go and ride around the old city inside the moat and explore the narrow sois and discover the array of surprises and hidden treasures riding up and down them. There is also a group which meets at Thapae Gate on Sunday mornings who travel by bicycle all around the city to get sort of a different tour every week. If I am able to get up early enough this coming Sunday -- it begins at 8 am -- and if it is not raining, I will go on it.

This weekend coming up is a jazz festival on Friday, and a classical concert on Saturday evening.

I am also volunteering teaching in the mornings for two hours every other day to a Thai student who is taking a University level in English. He is overwhelmed because he is the only Thai taking the course while the others are American and English exchange students who understand English fluently. So, I am relearning Economics 101 with him, and it is a challenge and pleasure to help in the community. I met with the director of volunteer services yesterday afternoon at Chiang Mai University, and they would like me to help out in a classroom situation as well. I feel good trying to help out the community.

Next week, on the 25th I am planning to go to Bangkok for four days for a little change of scenery.
I have a cousin whom I have never met, and he has been teaching English in Thailand for the last seven years. Our family roots come from the same town in Poland before the holocaust, and his family settled in Argentina. He found me on Facebook and skype and started to communicate with me.

So, life here, seems to be full, although I feel accomplished if I manage to get one thing done a day instead of the numerous ones that I did in Canada. I seem to start one thing, then get sidetracked socially, because it seems that nobody seems to plan their days in advanced. It is very easy to get hooked into this lifestyle.

By the way...I haven't mentioned food for a while, but I found a place that sells delicious spinach and whole wheat bagels, and I am able to get fresh Norwegian smoked salmon. The only thing missing is the creamed cottage cheese.....
I did go to the rooftop restaurant at Hillside 5 last Saturday evening. It is an open air restaurant on top of the 15th floor of a condominium and hotel not too far from where I live. The views were breathtaking, the live music was from the Beegee's and Beatles and the food delectable. Anyone who visits, will be taken their as you feel you are in the heavens looking down on the town while wining and dining.

6:50 a.m. - 2009-05-22
Everyday life interrupted by rain
Laziness has been my excuse for not updating this journal for several weeks.

The monsoon rains have come about a month early, which has given me and the rest of the population a welcome break from the scorching heat that baked us for much of April and the first week of May. The weather starts out with clear skies and high humidity, then within five minutes, the wind blows up, the sky fills with dark clouds, then it begins to pour cats and dogs. Everything virtually stops in the way of traffic.
But, during the downpour I observe the motorcyclists wearing plastic ponchos over their body trying to keep dry. From the rear it looks like a fleet of "superman"
flying through the sky because a poncho has no buttons, and their fronts are wide open and their clothes get soaked anyway. Then there are those who are driving their motorcycles holding an umbrella over their head. What more do I have to say? One had on the bike, and one hand on the umbrella, which is inverted because of the wind. It is probably the umbrella top collecting fresh water.

Then after the torrential downpour, which lasts no longer than an hour, the winds subside and the sun comes out. Within an hour everything is dry outside with no hint of a storm.

The problem is that I don't know how to plan my day. I usually like to leave the house to go to an outdoor activity, but have to cancel it if a storm is coming in.

Every day life in this city can be very busy for me,
There are several expats groups to socialize in, and most seem to be interesting. Take the Dining Out Group for instance. Reservations have to be made with the co-ordinator to go to a certain venue to rate a restaurant, which is usually out of the downtown area in a remote place. Every time I have gone with them (one has to provide their own transportation) the food has been delightful, and the atmosphere has been special. These restaurants do not advertise in the English publications, so I would not know about them. Incidentally, the co-ordinator was a food critic for the New York Times a number of years ago before he moved to Thailand some twenty odd years ago.

Then there is the computer club, which meets every Tuesday afternoon at a local restaurant called Tuskers just outside of the east side of the moat. The latest technology is discussed, as well as if anyone has a problem with their computer, the co-ordinator and members help each other solve the problem. It is geared towards PC's and not Mac's, but after the one and a half hour meeting, another meeting is held specially for Mac owners,

Then there is a photography club, a writers group,
a travel group, a cyclist group which meets on Sunday mornings and rides into some of the smaller sois and sub sois. I haven't been yet, as I do not have a bike.

Last evening I attended my first "art opening" at a trendy art gallery. Wine and finger foods were served by costumed Geisha girls and ladyboys to the patrons. The art exhibit in my opinion was mediocre, but the permanent collection was superb. Framed fabric art would enhance any decor. Compared to North American prices art is still reasonably priced in Thailand, but beauty is in the eyes of the beholder.

After the art opening, and three glasses of wine later I stumbled over to Nimman Kitchen by Krit with about 10 friends. The Thai food there is excellent by one of Chiang Mai's top chefs, and the prices ridiculously reasonable (under $2.00 for a meal). The atmosphere is modern and sleek with jungle plants and water fountains surrounding our table. Soft jazz music is played in the background,

Learning Thai has been a real pain. Comprehending the words with the correct tonal sound has been difficult to say the least. I write down the words on a cue card with the transliterated sound to try to remember, but I feel so inadequate.

Thai's don't have to invent a reason to have a festival. They just happen. Earlier this week I was at Wat Chedi Luang, (inside the old city) and there was some type of festival, with caravan tents surrounding the perimeter selling all types of food, handicrafts, sunglasses, and souvenirs. I happened to take over 200 pictures here, and filled a memory card, and I didn't have a spare card to take more pics, but will later this weekend.

Because of the heat, I find that I cannot do a vast number of things in one day. I was beginning to think it is old age creeping up on me, but I find that everyone has to take a nap in the afternoon if not more.

Today (Friday) there is a Lanna Festival and arts and crafts market at Chiang Mai University--I am going for lunch with a friend, then over to the special market. Tonight I am invited over to my friend Larry's home for Shabbat dinner. I will report on the weekend events in a couple of days.

Until then........

10:41 a.m. - 2009-05-01
THAI LANGUAGE SCHOOL
April 20th was the first day of school for me. Beginners Thai is taught every Monday, Wednesday, and Friday from 10 am to noon for the next fifteen weeks.

The classroom has four rows of tables with three seats to a table, and the room is cooled with revolving fans attached to the ceiling. I am taking my language class at the YMCA which is about three blocks from my house. The YMCA is noted for having a very good beginners program, and the cost of a YMCA membership, the course, and the text book is about $60 CDN. My class consists of 15 students: from Korea, Australia, England, United States, Spain, Japan, Germany, and I am the sole Canadian.

The first lesson was on short and long vowels, tones, consonants